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Accommodation: In Espot I’ve stayed twice at the Hotel Encantats, where the quiet, courteous owners speak decent English, have immaculate rooms with balconies (see view opposite). The rooms are a reasonable size and larger than in most of the hotels I checked in Espot. Breakfast is a nice buffet spread. See: www.hotelencantats.com.
After viewing the lake go back down the track about 400 metres and turn right towards a signed mountain hut (Refugio Ernest Mallafre), about 15 minutes away. It was open when I first visited in September, and the warden serves tea, coffee and snacks, all very welcome after the first stage of your hike uphill from Espot. It was not open in April when I last visited but we could still use the tables outside.
Having rested take the track westward for about 100 metres, turning sharp left at the first junction, then right at the next junction. It should be signed for Portarro d’Espot, which is a high mountain pass. Once on the right track it is a steady pull uphill for about 90 minutes. You will pass one trail off to your left, then the signpost for Portarro d’Espot, and 20 metres beyond cross a steep gully, the Barranc del Portarro. In April I had to turn around here with my group, as the gully was blocked by a steep bank of snow. I would have crossed on my own or with very experienced hikers, but one slip on the snow bank could send one scooting downslope at a nasty rate of knots onto rocks below. Not to be recommended.
Espot to Estany (Lake) Sant Maurici and return
Overview: 16 km/10 miles, moderate hike, generally good track, but narrow, steep sided and exposed for about 300 metres.
Height gain: 550 metres/ 1815‘.
Map: Editorial Alpina: ‘Estany de Sant Maurici - Els Encantats’. 1:25,000. www.editorialalpina.com
Allow 6 hours, more if you are nature-watching.
Species of note: Lammergeiers, Golden Eagles, Rock Sparrows, Crested Tits, Firecrests.
Accommodation: In Espot I’ve stayed twice at the Hotel Encantats, where the quiet, courteous owners speak decent English, have immaculate rooms with balconies (see view opposite). The rooms are a reasonable size and larger than in most of the hotels I checked in Espot. Breakfast is a nice buffet spread. See: www.hotelencantats.com.
If you want to see some of the wonderful Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, but don’t want to take the park jeep service, this is a great hike of about 16 km (10 miles) round trip, departing from the National park parking area about 4 km from Espot.
Drive to the parking area (Prat de Pierro) at the entrance to the park about 4 km west of town. You can only go so far and will be directed by a ranger into the (free) parking area. From here head uphill for about 50m and take the signed board walk trail to your right. This takes you through a stand of conifer and birch forest. Use any of the viewing points along the boardwalk to look up to your right - I had golden eagles and lammergeiers in the same field of view in April. The latter is one of the rarest breeding birds in Europe, and is a dramatic bird to see up close. I have had up to four sightings of singles and pairs in this area.
At the end of the boardwalk the trail crosses the stream and continues upwards. Keep a watch out for rock sparrows, which were common in the open areas. There are a number of interesting display boards on different aspects of the local ecology. After about four km you will pass the hermitage of Sant Maurici, set into a hill to the right, and after another kilometre will reach the Lake of Sant Maurici, surrounded by high mountains on all sides. There is a Porta-loo available at the lake.
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| Refugio Ernest Mallafre |
Having rested take the track westward for about 100 metres, turning sharp left at the first junction, then right at the next junction. It should be signed for Portarro d’Espot, which is a high mountain pass. Once on the right track it is a steady pull uphill for about 90 minutes. You will pass one trail off to your left, then the signpost for Portarro d’Espot, and 20 metres beyond cross a steep gully, the Barranc del Portarro. In April I had to turn around here with my group, as the gully was blocked by a steep bank of snow. I would have crossed on my own or with very experienced hikers, but one slip on the snow bank could send one scooting downslope at a nasty rate of knots onto rocks below. Not to be recommended.  |
| Estany Sant Maurici |
On the far side of the stream the trail traverses a scree slope for about 150 metres before becoming easier again, and you'll soon reach the Mirador De l’estany (lake viewpoint). You are now at 2180 metres (7085’). The view is fabulous in any direction - well worth the effort. From here the trail starts dropping downhill. You pass a marshy area to your left and soon reach a small lake (Estany de Ratera), which is the high point for the jeep tours. Continue on the main track back past Sant Maurici (an alternative but steep trail drops off downhill past a waterfall) and return to your car near Espot.
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