A woodland trail around 

the Lakes of Killarney, Co. Kerry, Ireland

The Killarney National Park in Ireland's southwest hosts a range of walking and hiking trails, but one of my favourite day hikes is an easy and varied hike around a section of the Lough Leane and Muckross Lake shores. 

Distance:   8 - 10 kms, depending on start and finishing point.

Grade:  Easy, though some stretches can be slippery when wet. 

Accommodation:  Locally there are a number of great guesthouses and hotels worth trying.  Closest to the start of this hike is Friar's Glen Country House on Mangerton Road, run by Mary and John Fuller. A bit further away but set right on the shores of Lough Leane is the Lake Hotel, run by the Huggard brothers.  Both premises offer wonderful accommodations in beautiful surroundings.

From either premises make your way to the semi-ruined Franciscan Friary of Muckross Abbey, which is a little over a kilometre from both premises. The abbey dates to the late 15th century, though you can see from the changes in style of the cloister arches that the builders made significant changes during its construction period. There are a couple of large yew trees around the abbey, and a particularly fine specimen in the cloisters itself.  A section of the abbey has been recently reroofed, and it is worth exploring the whole building before proceeding northwest to the shores of Lough Leane. Turn to the south on a slightly muddy trail which offers views of Lough Leane, the islands, and the spire of St Mary's cathedral in distant Killarney.  Be sure to stop at the gaps in the trees to look out for the white-tailed eagles, recently released into the national park.  These fabulous birds tend to hang around the lake shores searching for fish and carrion.  If you spot any crows apparently mobbing something, this could be a sign of eagles nearby.  

Wall Valerian growing in Muckross Friary

Your trail continues south before rejoining the tarmac road used by the jaunting cars.  Shortly afterwards you will come to a field on your left, the site of a now-vanished Georgian mansion - take the right-hand fork immediately after this clearing, past the boat shed, and stay to your right at the next junction.  You should have an old cottage on your left, and a larger house on your right - the latter is used to accommodate student volunteers during summer.

Follow the tarred road for about 5 minutes, then turn right onto the woodland trail.  You should now be entering a section of Killarney's ancient yew wood, following a wire fence to your left.  Note the rocky nature of the terrain from which the trees grow - yews thrive on limestone or chalk substrate.  Some of the larger yews in this woodland may be 300+ years old.  

The trail crosses the West Meadow before entering an area of oak wood, a very different scene to that you have left behind. Continue until you get to the tarred road again, then turn right.  

The rocks under the yew trees are covered with a thick layer of mosses

You will shortly cross over Dinis bridge onto Dinis Island.  To the north lies Lough Leane, with Tomies Mountain to your left.  It might be worth your while to pause here again and scout for  eagles.  Behind you are the more placid waters of Muckross Lake, with Torc Mountain being the dominant feature on the far shore.  Further on you will see Dinis Cottage on a small hill to your right - a good spot to stop for a welcome cuppa. Behind the cottage lies the Meeting of the Waters and the Old Weir bridge, which is probably the oldest bridge in Killarney. 

View across Muckross Lake to Dinis

Your trail continues along the paved road until you meet the main road after about 2 km.  Cross this and follow the signs for the hiking trail which runs above the road back towards Muckross. The surrounding forest is overgrown with rhododendron, but this was not the case when the area was planted with conifers in the mid 20th. century.  As you return towards Muckross you have a number of choices of trails, either towards Muckross House or towards Killarney itself.