Taking a break in the Pyrenees

Saturday, August 27, 2011

An easy-grade hike In the Dordogne, France

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St. Amand de Coly to Montignac, with a detour to visit Lascaux II.   

Overview: 12 km/8 miles, easy hike, good tracks.
Overall ascent: 250 metres/ 560‘. 
Map: Institute Geographic National: Map 2035 ‘Montignac - Grotte De Lascaux’ 
Allow 4 hours, more if you are nature-watching or visit Lascaux en route. 
Species of note: Short-toed treecreeper, nightingales, Black woodpecker
Hotel La Roseraie
Accommodation: In Montignac I use the Hotel La Roseraie, and it has always proved to be popular with my groups.  The delightful owner, Madam Nourisson, speaks perfect English, German and of course, French; is always courteous and efficient, and operates an excellent business.  This old manor house has rooms which are individual in their size, layout and decor, the outdoor swimming pool is pleasant to use after a hike, and any meal I have had there has been excellent.  They also offer a decent wine cellar. 

This is a lovely hike to explore the limestone, rolling landscape of this part of the  Dordogne.  Extensive oak woods are interspersed with scattered fields, and the historic sites are impressive, ranging from the early paleolithic to the 18th century.  

Take your car or taxi to St. Amand de Coly, an attractive village enclosed by low hills about 7 km east of Montignac as the crow flies.  The most striking feature is a large fortified Romanesque church, with heavy walls, narrow windows, arrow loops, and simple interior decoration.  There is also a traditional atelier or coppersmith nearby.  With the church behind you, head southwest towards the small car park, turn right for 100m and take the track into the woods on your left. It should be signposted GR461.  This rises gradually through the woods before breaking out into fields, crosses a small road and drops down along a narrow ridge.  At the bottom of this ridge the trail turns sharp left and continues SW along a narrow valley before joining the D704 from Montignac to Sarlat-la-Caneda. 


Turn left along the road for 100m, then right along a farm track.  Take the next right, walk under the old tunnel, and after 200m you will come into view of Chateau La Grand Filolie. Built between the 15th and 17th century, this is a beautiful structure of turrets, battlements and a roof of ‘lauzes’, or stone tiles.  It is privately owned and not open to the public.  


Stay on the track heading due south, and about 200m beyond the chateau follow the small track to the right which cuts off uphill.  At the top of this stretch you will pass through a small hamlet called Les Combes.  Follow the markers until you reach a narrow road, and turn right.  If you now followed this north-west it would take you back to Lascaux and ultimately to Montignac, but our trail diverts to the left after a 100m and begins to drop down into  along, narrow valley.  Watch for the sharp right turn after 300m.  Another 3 km will bring you to the lower end of the road you just crossed, where you can turn right to visit Lascaux II.  Although the GR461 turns uphill towards the end of this track, I prefer to follow the main track to Lascaux. 


Even if you are skeptical about visiting the recreation of the original Lascaux, it is well worth the visit, particularly if you are visiting other prehistoric caves in Dordogne.  The interpreters do an excellent job of explaining how, when and why the paintings were done, and the recreated cave paintings are themselves quite dramatic.   Call ahead to book a tour in English or your native language.  I believe that everyone should visit Lascaux and the other prehistoric caves in Dordogne at least once in their lives to get a wonderful sense of how our ancestors lived. 


From here it is about 2 km back to Montignac, a route which takes you through some nice parts of the old town.   

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